Destinations

Saudi singer-songwriter Hajaj's guide to London

The musician on his favourite shawarma joints, listening rooms and hotel stays in the UK capital
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Travel, borders and liminal spaces are constant themes for Jeddah-born singer-songwriter Abdul Rahman Hajaj, known simply as Hajaj. His lyrics examine themes of border crossing, internal conflict and belonging (or not) – and are set against a genre-defying mix of soul, R&B and funk. Although he’s a champion of the transformative power of travel (“you learn more about yourself when you change your external world”), the musician also loves to spend spring weekends in London, the city he currently calls home.

On the run

“Mudchute Park and Farm is a great place for a run. It’s on the Isle of Dogs – you see this Gotham-esque skyline as a backdrop and then you see sheep. The contrast is beautiful. It feels like a real wilderness.”

Pecan cookies by Cdric Grolet at The Berkeley

Pecan cookies by Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley

The Berkeley

A full English

“After Mudchute, I go for breakfast at Minon Cafe on Ilderton Road in Bermondsey. I order a full English, or sometimes a chicken sandwich. For coffee, Hagen in West London is great. And for fancy pastries, there’s Cédric Grolet.”

Cool exports

“Two Middle Eastern clothing brands that I’m a fan of in London are Suez Studio by Egyptian-Iraqi Serag Elmeleigy and Libya-born Mabruk Ali’s Medina. They both celebrate where they come from unapologetically and uncompromisingly, while still being elegant and expressive about the world around them – that’s a beautiful thing.”

Greenwich Market

Greenwich Market

Chris J Ratcliffe/Getty Images

Shopping in Greenwich Market

“Greenwich Market always has so much to offer, with all its artisans, but for antiques I go to my friend Daniel Angiolini’s stall. He’s always sourcing new items, including furniture and clothes. He’s a historian of sorts, and you’ll find things from all over the world, like wooden carvings, trinkets and relics. I found a painting from West Africa that I now have in the studio.”

Musical interlude

“Sit on a bench in front of the Trinity Laban Conservatoire of Music and Dance and you’ll hear people practising their instruments. You’ll feel their ambition for musicianship and craftsmanship, and hear their intense discipline. It’s chaotic but I love it. If it’s sunny, it’s beautiful. Even when it’s gloomy, it’s beautiful.”

Cheese toastie

“Join the queue for a grilled cheese at Kappacasein Dairy in Borough Market. It’s a whole thing.”

A deluxe room at Batty Langleys

A deluxe room at Batty Langley’s

Jake Eastham

Where to stay

“My favourite hotel in London is Batty Langley’s in Spitalfields. As soon as you walk in, you’re like: ‘What era am I in?’ There are portraits and antiques everywhere, and an honesty bar where you write down whatever you’ve consumed.”

Late-night music

“After dinner, I go to E3 for some live music at The Palm Tree in Mile End Park, which has been in business for almost 100 years. My producer, co-writer and musical director Aidan Glover and his trio, The Jazz Physicians, play there. It’s cash-only, so stop by an ATM before you go. One thing I’ve also been getting into lately is listening rooms. There’s one in Deptford called Jazu. There’s no fussiness about it, no paintings on the walls, just simplicity and extremely good speakers.”

Sushi at Sumi

Sushi at Sumi

Sumi

Dinner in Notting Hill

“For dinner around Notting Hill, I like Sumi for sushi, Cocotte for rotisserie chicken and Electric Cinema for burgers. But right now I love Zephyr on Portobello Road for Greek food. I love the seabass ceviche and the amazing desserts.”

Taste of home

“Cafe Helen on Edgware Road is a late-night shawarma solution. It’s more a case of function over fashion, but it’s delicious. And I go to Maroush for cheese samboosek. It’s great to be able to have some food that reminds me of home.”

Under-the-radar-eats

“I love Paul Rothe & Son on Marylebone Lane. It’s a fourth-generation, family-owned sandwich shop. The chairs are made of maroon leather, and they have an amazing display of marmalade and jams. It’s beautiful. You get a newspaper, a salt beef or coronation chicken sandwich, ignore your phone and talk to whoever’s there.”